Last Updated on May 28, 2024 by grubdunkman

Climbing as a sports discipline began in the mid-1980s when the first competitions were held on natural rock surfaces. It is a part of Olympics program since the last games in Tokyo, held in 2021. Let’s explore the history and the future of this sport.

Climbing History

The first officially recognized international climbing event took place in 1985 as part of the Sportroccia event. This competition later evolved into the annual Rock Master competition. Among the first winners were legendary athletes like Stefan Glowacz, Patrick Edlinger, and Catherine Destivelle.

In 1988-1989, the French Climbing Federation and Paul Brasset convinced the International Union of Alpine Associations (UIAA) to regulate and administer climbing competitions, which then started to be held on artificial walls. The first UIAA Climbing World Cup, consisting of seven stages worldwide, took place in 1989. Initial UIAA World Climbing Championship was held in 1991 in Frankfurt. The first Youth World Championship in 1992 in Basel.

Since 1998, new disciplines such as bouldering and speed climbing have been added to the UIAA competitions. In 2006-2007, the UIAA transferred governance of climbing competitions to the newly formed International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). It received provisional recognition from the International Olympic Committee (IOC).

Climbing At Olympics

In August 2016, the IOC announced that climbing would be included in the 2020 Tokyo Olympics. The format combined three disciplines (lead climbing, bouldering, and speed climbing) into a single medal event. This decision was controversial. However, it allowed the maximum number of disciplines to feature at the Olympics. The first Olympic climbing champions were Alberto Ginés López among men and Janja Garnbret among women.

For the 2024 Paris Olympics, the format has been changed: speed climbing will be a separate event, while lead climbing and bouldering will remain combined.

Climbing At Olympics: Main Competition Rules

Let’s take a look at the rules of the three main Olympic disciplines. They require different skills, technique and preparation.

Lead Climbing

In lead climbing competitions, athletes have six minutes to climb a 15-meter (49 feet) challenging, and usually significantly overhanging, pre-bolted route. The route is set by a route setter and includes pre-placed quickdraws for protection. Climbers must clip their rope into these quickdraws as they ascend. Failure to clip into a quickdraw terminates their climb at that point.

Scoring is based on the highest hold the climber reaches and controls. If the climber uses the hold to make a controlled movement toward the next hold before falling, a “+” is added to their score. For example, if a climber falls while reaching for hold 35, their score would be “34+”.

Before each round, competitors are given six minutes to inspect the route without attempting it. They are then kept in isolation to prevent them from observing other climbers and learning the route, effectively making them climb the route onsight.

Bouldering

We talked about this discipline in our rock climbing introduction article. In bouldering competitions, athletes must solve multiple short 4.5-meter (15 feet) problems within a set time period, with the fewest falls. Each problem can be attempted multiple times within the time limit. Usually 5 minutes in qualifiers and 4 minutes in finals.

Each problem has an official start position for all four limbs. A problem is considered completed when the athlete secures the marked “top” hold with both hands and holds it long enough for confirmation from the judge. Additionally, there are “zone holds” midway through the problem, which earn a half-point if secured.

Scoring is determined by the number of problems topped, the number of zone holds reached, and the number of attempts taken. If two climbers have the same score, the number of tops takes precedence, and if still level, the fewest attempts takes precedence.

Speed Climbing

In IFSC speed climbing competitions, athletes race to climb a standard 15-meter wall with a 5-degree overhang as fast as possible. The format involves head-to-head races using a top rope for protection. The best male athletes complete the route in under six seconds, while the best female athletes do so in under seven seconds.